O U T S I D E L E F T   stay i n d e p e n d e n t

Ireland in the Rain (Part 2)

Joe Ambrose continues his odyssey around the south of Ireland's hot spots

get the weekly Outsideleft newsletter
by Joe Ambrose, Literary Editor for outsideleft.com
originally published: February, 2010
The juxtaposition of the sharp architectural statement with the drained-of-life main street couldn't be more poignant
by Joe Ambrose, Literary Editor for outsideleft.com
originally published: February, 2010
The juxtaposition of the sharp architectural statement with the drained-of-life main street couldn't be more poignant

I go visit my home town of Clonmel and the so-called cities of Kilkenny and Waterford.

The Office of Public Works has done a good job in developing Clonmel's Main Guard (above), a historic structure defining the east end of the town's O'Connell St. I like the sparse unadorned style although, in its habitual deserted state, it represents something of an elitist statement or wasted opportunity. I inspected the space a while back in connection with an art project I'm working on and I couldn't help but that notice that the Main Guard's windows look out onto a run down, disappointing, O'Connell Street. The juxtaposition of the sharp architectural statement with the drained-of-life main street couldn't be more poignant. When I was a kid O'Connell Street throbbed with provincial life, playing host to a variety of locally-owned businesses which fanned the flames of social life and commerce.

Waterford has changed little since I spent four years at boarding school there. It still has that murky port-of-entry feel about it. Like Limerick, it boasts more than its fair share of shut down old businesses. Street corners are still playing host to corner boys, provincial yokels who'd be happy watching paint dry. The same hopeless live music venues put on shows by the exact same sort of ugly looking heavy metal types as formed such bands when I lived there. The city fathers have invested in improving the look of the place and the bus depot on the quays is a rare example of a new Irish building which is both aesthetically pleasing and utterly functional.

I head for the Book Centre, a monumentally ugly place but a very decent bookshop, much better than anything to be found in Limerick. There I manage to buy both Books Ireland and The Irish Book Review, two hard-to-find publications. I go looking for that old second hand record shop which, it turns out, has closed down since the last time I was in town.

see more stories from outsideleft's Culture archive »»

Joe Ambrose
Literary Editor

Joe Ambrose has written 14 books, including Chelsea Hotel Manhattan and The Fenian Reader. Joe is currently working on his next book, Look at Us Now - The Life and Death of Muammar Ghadaffi, which is an expanded version of a story first published in the anthology CUT UP! Visit Joe's website for all the latest info: JoeAmbrose.co.uk.

years end

more stories you really could read...


thumb through the ancient archives:

search for something you might like...


sign up for the outsideleft weekly. a selection of new and archived stories every week. Or less.

View previous campaigns.

Behind the Counterculture #25: John Cleese
What's Not To Hate?
airports, children, obstacles... chris connolly talks about a failed attempt to get to London. What's Not to Hate
Pogus Caesar: Muzik Kinda Sweet
Part two of our interview with UK artist Pogus Caesar
Au coeur d'une rencontre avec Mamou Orsinet Florimond
"Je vis et respire le Bèlè"
The Roadbreakers - Big Road Blues, Released Post - Humously
In another episode from his Claremont Road biopic, Paul H recounts grabbing at the Stranglers coat tails in an attempt to turn back the M11...
DVD Review: Air Guitar Nation
It's been said that those who can, do. Those who can't, play air guitar. I'm paraphrasing, of course, but after watching Air Guitar Nation I can proudly say that I fall into the latter category.
Some of our favorite things...